Use the body and garment sizing charts to choose your size. You'll find a separate PDF for each size on the folder you downloaded from the store.

Print the PDF, making sure to print it at 100% scale (or "Actual Size")

Measure the 3x3cm square on the first page to make sure it has not scaled up or down

The pages should be connected side by side without any cutting or overlapping. Align the diamonds on the sides of the pages.

It might be that the lines don't reach the end of the page, but that is fine! Printers don't usually print all the way to the end, but the margins are minimal and you should be able to connect the lines when cutting.

The pages follow the order of letters horizontally and numbers vertically, like the video above.

Cut on the pattern lines, you should have 6 paper pieces in total.

It is always nice to make a mockup with cheaper fabric if it is the first time you make a pattern to see how the sizes fit you!

Each piece has an arrow indicating what is the grainline, that is how you know how to orient the piece in the fabric.

The grainline runs parallel to the selvage, which is the side of the fabric that has some finish (not the side where the fabric store cut your fabric).

The arrow should be positioned parallel to the selvage!

Some pattern pieces have an indicator in them saying “fold”. This means that the sides with the indicators should be positioned with the fabric folded there.

The idea here is that this piece is symmetrical, so after you cut it you will unfold it and have the full piece without a seam in the middle.

Notice how for those we only need to cut 1x on each the fabric and the lining, not 2x like the others!

Cut the fabric according to the instructions in each pattern piece.

Notice how some say to cut mirrored, that is because we need one for each side of our body, so they need to be mirrored for the nice side of the fabric to be facing outwards!

A nice way to cut mirrored is to have 2 layers of fabric while cutting, but make sure to have them either right-sides-together or wrong-sides-together. If both have the right side up for example they won't be mirrored!

Mark your notches inside the bounds of the pattern with a tailor's chalk or snip a little bit with scissors. If you are snipping it, make sure to do it shorter than 1cm so it stays within the seam allowance

Notches are how we align the pattern pieces when sewing, and in a pattern with some curves like this one they are super important. Mark them so the sewing steps are easier ;)

Except for the strap pieces, you will also need to cut the pattern pieces in the lining fabric. Check the information on each pattern piece to identify if they need a lining piece. Follow the same instructions to cut the lining pieces and don't forget to mark the notches.

In the end you should have 6 lining pieces + 9 main fabric pieces (6 of the main body and 3 for straps)

The back has a big curve which is prone to stretching or deforming while we sew. To avoid that we will stich a line close to the curve (less than the seam allowance!)

I would guess that this is called a stay-stitch because it helps the fabric to stay in its original shape. 😛

This video shows how the stay-stitch looks like. Make sure to not stretch the fabric as you feed it into the machine, and remember to do it for both the main fabric and the lining!

Align the notches on each side with the fabric right-sides-together. Pin in place, and if needed clip a little bit of the center front panel so you can follow the curve. Be very careful to not cut more than 1cm!!

Align the edge of the fabric to the mark of your machine for 1cm (or 10mm like on mine). Sew it with a straight stitch removing the pins as you go.

After you sew, make a few clips in the seam allowance in the pieces with a curve so the fabric can follow the seam nicely.

Pressing the seams with an iron might sound like an unnecessary step, but it is actually an important one! It makes the fabric adapt to the seam and gives a professional look to your garment, besides making the steps that come afterwards waaaay easier!

First press with the seam closed, like when you sew it, then open and press it to the side. For the main fabric, press away from the center; for the lining press with the seam to the center.

The curved part of the bust is tricky to iron, since we don't want it flat! Use this “pillow” called tailor's ham, or if you don't have one you can improvise by folding an old hoodie into a little ball like I do in the video!

With both sides attached to the center front, and ironed, repeat the same steps for the lining: align notches, sew, clip and iron!

The lining will have the nice side of the fabric facing our body, so the bust must be pressed inwards.

Press the seam allowances towards the center, the opposite way of the main fabric. This is so when we sew them together we distribute evenly the amount of fabric and avoid one side getting too bulky.

Align the notches on each side with the fabric right-sides-together. Pin in place.

Align the edge of the fabric to the mark of your machine for 1cm (or 10mm like on mine). Sew it with a straight stitch removing the pins as you go.

Do the same for the lining pieces.

Iron the seams, first closed then open, like we did for the front. Iron the main fabric seams to the center back and the lining seams to the sides.

Align your main fabric pieces one on top of the other, with the right sides together. Pin the side seams and sew both sides.

Now you have a closed loop with the main fabric, so you need to slip it on your ironing table to make it easier to press. Press these seams open, meaning one side of each seam allowance towards each side.

Align the pieces for the lining, also right sides together. Sew the right seam completely but for the left-side seam sew only a couple of cms at the top and a couple at the bottom, leaving a hole in the middle. We will need this hole to be able to do a nice, hidden finishing on the hem and then turn the whole piece inside out later.

Fold the straps along the long edge right sides together and sew using 1cm seam allowance. Make sure to sew as straight as possible, since the elastic will go through this space. Go slowly and you can do it!

Turn the straps inside out so the seam is hidden inside it. I like to use a safety pin, attach it to one edge and then guide it through the inside of the strap. Don't forget to press it when you are done, keep the seam in the middle like in the video.

There are multiple hacks and tools out there to turn a strap inside out! For this width of strap the method of using a safety pin like I do in the video is good enough, but feel free to use your preferred method or tool for this!

Using a safety pin, guide the elastic inside the casings. Make sure to not loose the other end of the elastic inside, a pin or a second safety pin is helpful here.

On each end, sew the elastic to the short edge of the strap. You will sew through a layer of fabric, the elastic and another layer of fabric, so the end of the elastic is secured with the end of the strap. Make sure to do this with a seam allowance smaller than 1cm so it doesn't show on the finished garment.

Pin the straps to the front piece. We will use the seams as a guide: align the strap to the outside of the seam, with the right side facing the front panels and the strap going down, with the raw edges aligned.

Pin lining and main fabric right sides together at the upper edge, with the strap sandwiched in between.

Align all the seams, making sure to position them to opposite sides to avoid bulky pieces.

Sew from the beginning of the curve at the back from one side to the other, passing through the front. That would be approx 3cm down from the top edge of the side back piece, going:

left side back -> left side front -> front -> right side front -> right side back.

Notice that we are not sewing the back piece together yet!

Clip the curves so the fabric can be folded right side out. Fold the seam to have both right sides out and iron the fold.

Do an understitch on the lining, catching the seam allowance. This is so the lining doesn't show on the outside of the garment when wearing and to prevent the seam to start to fold on itself.

It is just a close stitch on only the lining side (without catching the main fabric!). I like to align the seam and then position the needle to the left so it sits closer to it. Also notice how I'm always checking to see if I'm catching the seam allowance and nothing else.

We'll attach the back strap on the left side of the curve. Measure 1cm down from the top edge and pin the strap right-sides-together with the main fabric.

Notice the direction! I know it seems counterintuitive, but we are attaching the strap away from the curve. This is so when we attach the lining and turn the piece right side out the strap will be directed on the opposite side, which is the curve side! A good way to think about this is that usually for straps we align the raw edges, which means it looks like we are putting them in the opposite direction.

It might be a bit tricky to get the strap aligned because there is little space inside the lining there, but just go with slowly and use multiple pins if needed!

After we sew the strap on one side, turn the lining and main fabric right sides together. The strap will now be sandwiched between them.

Pin the curve in place and mark about 4cm down from the other top edge, we won't sew all the way up there because we need space to sew the other side later.

Sew from the top edge on that side until 4cm before the top edge, on the other side. We'll leave that space so we can attach the other side of the back strap at the end.

I find it easier to attach the final side as the last step of all the straps, because it is a short one and it will pull the shirt together. We will do it after the shoulder straps are finished in the next section.

Clip the curve on the seam allowances so it is easier to fold the top to the outside.

Understitch the lining on the back curve. There is no need to go edge to edge, so just make sure you understitch the main part of the curve.

Then iron the final back curve in place.

Turn the top to have the right sides of main fabric and lining facing each other. Grab the left strap from where it is attached on the front and guide the other end to the hole we left on the back of the top, making sure to not twist the strap. Feed int the hole and pin it sandwiched between the main fabric and the lining.

Before you sew, turn it to the right side to double-triple-check that you didn't twist the strap. Sew the strap with 1cm seam allowance.

For the other shoulder strap, start with the top with the right side out. Grab the strap from where it is attached on the front and guide it to the hole of the back, but this time make sure to turn it upside down so: 1. strap and shirt are right-sides-together and 2. raw edges are aligned.

Remember what I mentioned about straps being sewed like they are going the other way!

Turn it inside out and pin lining and main fabric with the strap sandwiched in between.

Before you sew, turn it to the right side to double-triple-check that you didn't twist the strap. Sew the strap with 1cm seam allowance.

Cool! Now our top already has shoulder straps! Let's move on to the back strap then.

Like we did for the previous strap, guide the back strap into the hole we have on the side of the curve, but align it right-sides-together with the main fabric, and with the raw edges to the same side.

Pin it in place and turn it inside out so you can sandwich the strap between the lining and the main fabric.

This part is again a bit annoying due to the tight space now that most things are already sewed. Take it easy and go slow!

Remove the pin that you had added in the beginning and sew it with 1cm seam allowance.

Turn the top right side out and check if all straps are attached nicely and nothing is twisted.

You might also have a small gap or two close to the back straps depending on how much space you left in the beginning. That is ok, I also had them! Turn the top right inside out and close any gaps you have by finishing the stitches on the back curve.

Before you turn it right side out again, clip the edges of where the straps attach to the back to reduce a bit of the bulkyness. In the video you can see that I just cut the corners in an angle. This helps it look nicer when we turn it right side out.

On our final piece, we want the lining and main fabric sewed right-sides-together, so to get to that we will bring one to the other by going around the top.

See on the video how I'm kinda wrapping the whole top inside the two pieces when I do this, and making sure to not pin anything in between.

You will also notice that you can't unfold the top and pin the whole circumference at once, but don't worry, that is expected and I will show you how we'll make it work! Pin only the front for now, we will pin the rest as we sew.

We have this burrito-looking piece now, so let's take it to the sewing machine. Start by sewing with 1cm seam allowance the part that you pinned, and when you reach the end stop sewing but don't remove the fabric from the machine.

You'll pull from the inside of the burrito more fabric and then pin the lining and the main fabric right sides together for a little bit more. Then sew that and repeat once you reach the end of your pinned section.

The thing is a loop so eventually you will reach the starting point again.

Check during the whole process if you are not accidentally catching another piece of the top between the lining and the main fabric!

With your burrito all sewed up, find the hole we left in the lining piece and turn the top right side out through there. I swear every time I do this I feel like I'm doing a magic trick!

Pull the straps and hem to make sure the fabric is adjusting nice and not left unturned.

Iron the hem in place. Pull the seam with your hand or with a pin to make sure you are not ironing it with a big fold, but that the fold is right at the seam.

Iron it all around, for the hole hem.

Now we will close this gap in the lining! I like to do this on the machine, sewing a stitch line as close as I can to the edge of the folded lining pieces. We fold it so the seam allowance follows the same as the part that is sewed but also so the finishing looks nice.

If you want a completely invisible finish here you can sew it by hand with an invisible stitch (if you skip the understitching from previous parts this top can even be made reversible!).

Now everything is done! Double check if everything looks good, trim any of those crazy lines we always forget to trim while sewing and go enjoy your top!

Don't forget to tag me @ikindamadeit on social media if you post a photo with it!